September 13, 2004
I took it easy this morning as I figured that I would have no problem reaching Kvikkjokk in the afternoon. I had breakfast and started the last segment in good shape at 10 AM..
The sun showed up once in a while, and the weather changed between no rain and a light drizzle. The view over Tjaktajaure was magnificent, despite this years’ low water level caused by the downstream dam level control.
The trail downhill to Pårte was very muddy and slippery. At some places the trail was covered of up to 10 cm of water, and sometimes it was easier to walk on the side of the actual trail. The planks just before the Pårte cabin were very slippery, and you had to be very careful. At 12:30 PM I reached Pårte and I rested for a while before starting the last sub-segment.
The trail had been muddy and slippery before Pårte, but it was getting worse the closer I got to Kvikkjokk. It was at its worst around the lake Stuor Dáhtá where the large boulders covering the trail where dangerously slippery. After this passage it got gradually better, but it was still muddy and wet.
As I got closer to Kvikkjokk I met substantially more hikers than before. The poor trail conditions slowed me down, and so did the worsening weather. For the first time since I started in Abisko there were now intermittent heavy showers. The mosquitos had also become really active, and the mosquito repellant came in handy.
The Mountain Station closed their reception desk at 7:30 PM, and at 7 PM I realized that I would not get there in time. Fortunately Telia had cell phone coverage at my current destination, and I could call in advance and ask them to put my room key waiting for me in an envelope at the reception desk. I had no interest in spending the night in my tent. I wanted to get inside and take a hot shower.
When I reached the parking lot a couple of hundred meters from the Mountain Station the sky opened up and it started to really pour down. A couple of minutes later, at 7:40 PM, I reached Kvikkjokk Mountain Station, opened the door, and returned to the civilization again. I had experienced a couple of fantastic days out in the wilderness, but now a rain storm was raging outside.
After buying some supplies in the store I took a hot shower and shaved. I felt pretty satisfied laying in a nice soft bed in my room while the rain literally poured down outside the window. Sometimes you are really lucky. The bad weather continued for several days, and I had managed to fit my hike in between two periods of heavy rain and bad weather.