July 17, 2005 9:10 AM, Fjällhästen (O1518058, N7317512) 12ºC Û
I fell asleep at 10 PM and had a good night’s sleep, even if I woke up a couple of times. (As you do when you are not used to sleep in a soft bed.) I went up at 8 AM - well rested and refreshed. After a warm shower and a quick breakfast I will continue south. It is overcast and a light drizzle in the air. Ammarnäs is peacefully quiet this Sunday morning.
July 17, 2005 6:30 PM, Juovvatjåhkka (O1502950, N7316250) 12ºC Û
I am taking a short break here in the small cabin. It is strategically located at the crest of the pass. From here you have an unobstructed view tens of miles to the west. A look in the guest book shows that there has only been one or a handful hikers stopping by each day since the end of June.
The trail was poorly marked all the way up from Ammarnäs. The trail markers were broken and the red paint markings were almost non-existent. However, it was no problem following the trail through the birch forest, except for just before the second bridge over Slagerbäcken where I took a wrong turn.
The summer trail is close to unmarked in the birch forest. Just before the bridge there is a wide ATV trail leading east. If you do not carefully track your progress on the map it is easy to take a wrong turn. After a while you get used to not seeing any trail markers for a quarter of a mile, you stop looking for them and just follow the widest trail.
Just after the second bridge on the trail to Aigert I was surprised to see that someone had built a shrine close to the trail. Right in the middle of nowhere. A Russian girl died here in a snow mobile accident at the end of March 2005.
When I emerged out of the birch forest above the tree line I was able to keep a faster pace. The landscape opened up and I was making good progress.
I stopped by at the Aigert cabin. It is situated on a ridge by the lake Ruovdatjjávrátje. I had lunch there and took the opportunity to chat with the nice cabin hostess.
When ascending up to the pass I met two hikers on their way to Aigert. There was not a lot of water between Aigert and here at the high point of the pass. Except for the small lakes close to the pass. The trail was rocky and slippery from the rain, but without any steep ascents.